I’m delighted to report that
tonight’s hotel room (the Clinton Inn in Tenafly) is light years ahead of the
flophouse that I stayed at last night. The
phone works, the wallpaper isn’t torn, the windows are solid, and the sheets
aren’t technically a biohazard. Also,
there’s a Hoarders marathon on, so it doesn’t get much better than that. I sort of needed a morale boost today because
three out of the five things I attempted to see on the Odyssey weren’t there.
The first place on my itinerary was
the former home of Angelo Nardone in Nutley.
Angelo, who apparently never got over the palatial beauty of his home in
Naples, assembled a huge cache of Italian statuary in the front yard of his
small property at the corner of Hilton and Franklin Streets (it’s amazing how
many overzealous lawn ornament people there are). Not surprisingly, a battalion of little old
ladies fought the town for years in an attempt to get rid of his marble
hoard. Before it could progress to the
point of litigation, a fire claimed most of the property in 2002, and this is
all that’s left:
Well, that was depressing. Still, it was still early and I had several
other things scheduled, so with hope in my heart I ventured off to see the
Dancing Man of Hackensack.
The Dancing Man of Hackensack (James Roberson)
allegedly dances on the corner of Anderson and River Streets—for fourteen hours
a day. Not surprisingly, he’s considered
mentally ill enough to qualify for disability, and is on a great deal of
medication. Still, he’s supposed to be a
relatively happy dude, clearly non-violent, and apparently dances for people
all day because “commuting is stressful.”
Technically, I suppose he’s no different than a busker, although he
supposedly refuses money.
I got to the corner in question and—nothing:
I actually looked at all four
corners, and continued not to see Mr. Roberson, so I figured I’d inquire at the
McDonald’s across the street—McDonald’s workers know everything.
ME:
Pardon me, I’m looking for James Roberson. Do you happen to know if he still comes here?
DISGRUNTLED MCDONALD’S
CASHIER: (odd accent) Who?
ME:
James Roberson—he’s supposed to be dancing on the corner.
DMC: Oh! He
died.
ME:
Aww, crap.
Well, that was a bummer. It was shaping up to be a disappointing day
on the Odyssey, but I blundered on to see The Big Giant Guy Holding a Rolled-Up
Carpet Under the Pulaski Skyway. I
figured he wouldn’t be difficult to spot, and I was right. Because he’s right on the median of a
three-lane highway, I had to pull into an abandoned parking lot to get a
picture:
I was encouraged by my success with
The Big Giant Guy Holding a Rolled-Up Carpet Under the Pulaski Sykway, so I
perked up a little and headed for Jersey City, where I was due to look at a
Catholic church with “weird cat eyes” in its belfry. Now, some of you may not be familiar with
beautiful, bucolic Jersey City, so here’s a welcome packet:
Isn’t that homey? Screw Arbua—vacation here.
The mysterious cat eyes have
apparently been appearing at St. Joseph’s Church in 1921, disappeared for a
while, then started showing up again in 1954 after a sexton at the church was
found dead, reputedly having just whispered the words “I’m going to the belfry.” The
local residents don’t consider the lights to be malevolent or evil
necessarily—they haven’t coincided with any deaths since the sexton’s. In any case, I took pictures from three
angles and didn’t see any lights, cat’s or otherwise:
I was clearly having an
off-day. Still, as it was still
daylight, I decided I might as well push on to Devil’s Tower in Alpine. The story here is that a Spanish businessman,
made wealthy from sugarcane plantations in Cuba, built the tower in the first
half of the twentieth century, for the above-ground burial of his wife and
sister. When Mr. Rionda died in 1943,
all three of the bodies were moved because the company that bought the real
estate felt that the people they planned to build houses for wouldn’t want to
live near a few bodies that were walled up like Fortunato in “The Cask of
Amontillado.” Aside from being sealed,
the Tower remains the same as it did then:
Still, it was a nice note to end
day four of the Odyssey, even if the excursions today were anti-climactic. Tomorrow I’m headed for other sites in Bergen
and Passaic Counties, so it will hopefully be a more fruitful day.
Odyssey out.
I am following your escapades with interest and a little concern. If the desk clerk looks like Anthony Perkins, I suggest that you try the next inn along.
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